Glossary of Leather Terms

Leather terminology can be confusing, with many overlapping definitions and contradictory online information. If you require any clarification on technical terms, please reach out.

 

Tannage

  • Tanning – A method of preserving animal skin using tannins. Tannins are chemical compounds that bind to the fiber structure of the skin and prevent it from decaying.
  • Chrome Tanned – Leathers tanned using chromium salts to preserve the hide. Today, 80-90% of all leather produced is chrome tanned. Chrome-tanned leathers are generally more water-resistant, flexible, and resistant to staining, heat, and aging compared to vegetable-tanned leather.
  • Vegetable–tanned—Leathers tanned with plant-based materials. Vegetable-tanned leathers are often firmer and thicker than chrome-tanned leathers. They tend to age beautifully and develop a rich patina over time. Unlike chrome-tanned leather, vegetable-tanned leather can often be wet-formed. Well-cared-for vegetable-tanned leather can last for generations.
  • Chrome–free tanning produces a product similar to chrome-tanned leather but with a lower environmental impact. This tannage is increasingly popular among crust and lining leathers because of its more neutral colour.
  • Combination Tanned—Leathers are tanned using chrome and vegetable tannins to achieve the properties of both methods. Latigo leathers are often combination-tanned to be more waterproof and resistant to stretching.
  • Mineral Tanned – Leathers tanned with mineral salts, such as chrome or alum tanning. This term is often used to avoid negative connotations associated with chrome-tanned leather.
  • Oil-tanned—Usually Chrome—or combination-tanned leathers are finished in an oil bath to enhance water resistance, softness, and durability. 

Leather Cuts

  • Side – One-half of a hide. The most common cut for bovine leather.
  • Belly – The hide's weakest, stretchiest, and most affordable part. Suitable for smaller projects that do not require high strength or consistency.
  • Bend – Half of a double bend/butt.
  • Double Bend/Butt – The strongest part of the hide with densely packed fibers, making it ideal for belts and heavy-duty applications. The square shape of this cut minimizes waste.
  • Back – A side cut with the belly removed, increasing cutting yield.
  • Double Shoulder – A versatile cut suitable for various projects depending on thickness. Less dense than a double butt and may have fat wrinkles.
  • Whole Hide – An uncut, full hide. It is most common in upholstery applications or for smaller animals like pigs, goats, or lambs.

Dyeing Methods

  • Pigmented – Leather with a thick dye layer applied to the grain. Seals pores for increased water and stain resistance, ideal for vibrant and uniform colors.
  • Full Aniline – The most natural-looking leather, dyed with transparent dyes that leave the grain visible. It is highly porous and more susceptible to stains and patina development.
  • Semi-Aniline – Similar to full aniline but with a protective coating to reduce wear and staining.
  • Undyed Leather – Leather in its most natural form, commonly vegetable-tanned. Very sensitive to water, oil, and sunlight but develops a rich patina over time.

Grain

  • Full Grain – Leather that has not been sanded or corrected. The natural grain pattern and hair cells remain intact.
  • Top Grain / Corrected Grain – Leather that has been sanded to remove imperfections and create a more uniform surface. The correction level can range from being very minimal to completely removing its natural character.
  • Embossed – Leather stamped or rolled to create specific patterns (floral, western, croc, pebble, etc.).

Leather Finishing & Texture

  • Tipped – Embossed leather with a dark overtone applied to the peaks for a two-tone effect.
  • Milled – Leather tumbled in a drum to soften it and enhance grain characteristics.
  • Glazed – Leather polished under a glass rod to create a glossy surface.
  • Matte / Satin / Shiny / Glossy – Terms describing the level of light reflection on the leather’s surface.
  • Patina – The natural aging process of leather due to exposure to elements, heat, friction, and oils. This is most noticeable on vegetable-tanned and oil-tanned leathers.
  • Hand – Refers to the feel of a particular leather (e.g., soft, firm, supple).
  • Temper – The softness or firmness of leather.
  • Weight – Leather thickness, typically measured in millimeters or ounces. 
  • Molding – The process of using water to shape leather. It is only possible with vegetable-tanned leathers. The process works best with low oil content leather, but can be accomplished on articles with moderate oils and waxes.

Specialty Leathers & Uses

  • English Bridle – Full-grain vegetable-tanned leather, drum-dyed and hot-stuffed with waxes and oils for strength and water resistance.
  • Latigo – Durable, pliable leather with a high oil content, traditionally used for saddlery. Usually combination-tanned, but it can also be fully vegetable-tanned.
  • Harness – Similar to English Bridle but with more oils and waxes for enhanced water resistance. 
  • Calfskin – Leather from young bovines, known for its tight grain and firm structure and used for shoes, bags, and clothing.
  • Shell Cordovan – Leather made from the dense fiber structure in horses' hindquarters.
  • Pull-Up – High oil/wax content leathers that change color when stretched, giving a distressed look.
  • Hot Stuffed – Leather deeply saturated with hot oils and waxes for water resistance and a pull-up effect.
  • Upholstery Leather – Thin, pliable, full-hide leather used in furniture covering.
  • Carving / Tooling Leather – Vegetable-tanned leather with a neutral color and low oil content, making it ideal for stamping, tooling, and dyeing.